Tim Holtz

a little holiday something for you...

so i hope you get even more inspiration throughout the coming year and are able to refer to these techniques whenever you want with ease.
happy holidays once again!...-t!m

it's day 12 the final one - but have to say it's sure been fun...

"holiday fragments" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
glossy accents (ranger)
distress inks: aged mahogany, old paper (ranger)
jet black archival ink (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
scissors (tonic studios)
fragments (tim holtz idea-ology)
grungeboard (tim holtz idea-ology)
patterned paper (cosmo cricket)
glue dots (glue dots)
tag and embellishments

step 1: believe it or not, for today's tag, it's a good idea to plan ahead.  i know i'm not much of a planner or thinker, but when creating a mosaic using the fragments it does help to know how many and what sizes you'll need before you get started.  i like to lay out whatever fragments i am going to use on my project.  then once i'm happy with the look, i'll sketch the layout on a piece of paper - nothing fancy here, let's not get carried away with this thinking thing...

step 2: when creating custom embellishments with fragments you have so many options like i listed above, but on today's tag i wanted to incorporate 2 things i think most of us have lots of - stamps and scraps of paper. stamp images on various pieces of patterned scrapbook papers using waterproof ink - you do not need to stamp everything, (*tip: you could also stamp and color your images, create inked background papers, or stamp in other colors of ink - but EVERYTHING you use for this step must be waterproof, even the markers - or your images and colors will bleed when we adhere them!).

step 3: to start making our fragments, apply a small amount of glossy accent to one side of the fragment by scribbling it with the applicator tip of the bottle. (*tip: fragments do not have a front or back, top or bottom - anything goes!).

step 4: immediately press the fragment over the area you want for your embellishment.  i like to rotate it a little on the paper to spread the adhesive, but you must work QUICKLY! (*tip: glossy accents has a 5 second drying time on paper when using it as an adhesive - cool huh?  this is why it is important that whatever we use on the paper is waterproof or the colors will become a mess.  you may be asking about "other" dimensional adhesives on the market - my advice, i've tried the others and have had the best luck with glossy accents, enough said.).

step 5: repeat the above step until all of your fragments are adhered to the papers. (*tip: be sure to leave a little space between your glued fragments so you can get the scissors in there to cut them out.).

step 6: once all of the fragments are adhered, you're ready to cut them out.  remember they were dry in 5 seconds.  i prefer to use non-stick scissors to cut them out in case there is extra adhesive on the edges of these. (*tip: my scissors from tonic are detailed, self-sharpening, and non-stick.  i can't say it enough, they are really great scissors).

step 7: ink the background of the tag by going direct to paper.  rub the old paper distress ink pad on the tag until the background is inked. (*tip: you can use any color for this and for a softer background, use your ink blending tool).

step 8: remove the letters "w-i-s-h" from grungeboard sheets and adhere to craft sheet with glue dots. (*tip: i use this trick whenever i'm inking, painting, or even embossing small pieces of grungeboard or chipboard)

step 9: apply aged mahogany ink directly to them to hit the high textured areas.

step 10: rub over the letters with ink blending tool & foam to soften the color and get it into the recessed areas of the grungeboard.

step 11: using the sketched map from earlier, begin adhering your fragments to the tag using glossy accents once again as your adhesive. (*tip: only use a small amount of glossy accents from this step by placing some only on the back center of the fragment to avoid any oozing out.)

step 12: adhere your grungeboard letters to tag also using glossy accents and embellish tag. (*tip: even though glossy accents is often used for a dimensional effect, i use it as an adhesive for paper, grungeboard, metal, glass, wood, and ribbons - amazing stuff!).

it's day 11 - so let's do some distressin'...

"wreath of joy" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
distress embossing ink (ranger)
distress embossing powders: pine needles, shabby shutters, vintage photo (ranger)
distress crackle paint: shabby shutters (ranger)
distress ink: brushed corduroy (ranger)
mini mister (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
paper distresser (tonic studios)
scissors (tonic studios)
thickers letters (american crafts)
glue dots (glue dots)
tag and embellishments

step 1: paint tag with shabby shutters distress crackle paint and allow to dry and crack. (*tip: remember - a medium to heavy coat of paint for a larger crackle effect.  distress crackle paint is a one step crackle paint.)

step 2: on a new tag, stamp pine stamp with distress embossing ink. (*tip: i love using these smaller stamps as accent stamps to create bigger things!)

step 3: re-ink the stamp and stamp 3 more times on tag for a total of 4 images. (*tip: don't worry about time - you have about 5-10 minutes to get your powders on while the ink stays wet so relax!).

step 4: using your fingers, take a "pinch" of vintage photo distress powder and hold your fingers directly over the part of the image you want to color (the branches).  twist your fingers together to SLOWLY let the powder fall on that part of the image (*tip: hold your hand directly over the tag.)

step 5: repeat the above step using pine needles powder on the "needles" and until entire image is colored with powders.

step 6: IMPORTANT STEP - keeping your tag flat, hold it up with one hand and place 2 fingers under the tag with the other hand. using a tapping motion with your fingers, tap under that tag to bounce around the powders.

step 7: tip tag to remove any/all excess powders that don't stick to your stamped image - cool huh? (*tip: do not flick! these leftover powders are obviously all mixed up, but store them in an empty jar to save as a "party mix" for another project)

step 8: on another new tag, stamp holly stamp with distress embossing ink, and re-ink the stamp and stamp 3 more times on tag for a total of 4 images.

step 9: repeat embossing technique above using vintage photo on branches and shabby shutters on holly leaves.  emboss the images on both tags using your heat tool.  first thing you'll notice is that these powders never really change from matte to glossy like regular embossing powders do when they melt.  so how do you know when they're done?  well, practice...  the colors of the powders will actually change when they are melted, but if you're not sure, just heat as long as you think you would normally emboss something (*tip: the best part of distress powders is they can never be over-embossed like regular powders can so no worries).

step 10: THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP - distress powders MUST COOL before you can touch them.  unlike regular embossing powders that stick when melted, distress powders only stick once they have been melted and COOLED!  that's right, if you rub them while they're still hot, everything will fall off the paper.  just be patient.

step 11: once cool, touch areas of your image to make sure they feel like sandpaper vs. sand on the beach.  if they feel loose, just re-heat, let cool again, and then rub your hand across the image to remove the release crystals. (*tip: the release crystals are random what's done is done. do not put release crystals back into the jar, just throw them away)

step 12: ink the tags with old paper distress ink using an ink blending tool with ink blending foam. your image is already colored with the powders so you're just filling in the background.

step 13: cut out all 4 pine boughs, and 4 holly springs with scissors.

step 14: ink edges of cut pieces with ink blending tool & foam using brushed corduroy distress ink.

step 15: once tag has dried and crackled, ink with brushed corduroy using ink blending tool & foam - be sure to cover tag with ink and force down into cracks with foam. (*tip: if tag is not completely crackled, but has started to crack, you can use your heat tool on it to dry and finish cracking).

step 16: mist tag with water using mini mister and blot excess ink off using a paper towel. (*tip: the brown ink will remain in the cracks and the rest will be removed to reveal painted color).

step 17: drag paper distresser along edges of tag to tatter tag.

step 18: ink edges using ink blending tool & foam with brushed corduroy distress ink. (*tip: this will stain the raw paper edge and make it appear burnt).

step 19: begin assembling tag by adhering the pine and holly pieces in a "wreath" form - alternating each image piece with dimensional glue dots (*tip: you can overlap each image or tuck one under the other as you build the wreath).

step 20: repeat until wreath is completed

step 21: accent holly images with xmas red stickles. let dry.

step 22: place "thickers" letters JOY on craft sheet and accent with platinum stickles. let dry.

step 23: attach ribbon bow to top of wreath and embellish tag.

it's day 10 - and almost the end...

"shabby snowman" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
adirondack paint dabbers: snow cap, pitch black, pool, cloudy blue (ranger)
clear embossing powder (ranger)
clear embossing ink (ranger)
mini mister (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
heat tool (ranger)
cut n' dry foam (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
tag and embellishments

step 1: paint entire tag with pitch black paint dabber and let dry. (*tip: if you want to start with black cardstock, that would work too).

step 2: ink snowman portion of stamp and stamp with clear embossing ink near bottom of tag.

step 3: quickly ink snowflake stamp and stamp with clear embossing ink near top of tag.

step 4: cover both images with regular clear embossing powder.  shake off excess and place back into jar. (*tip: you have anywhere from 5-10 minutes to get the embossing powder on to the images as embossing ink has a much longer open time, especially on paint.).

step 5: heat images with heat tool to emboss until images are raised and turn shiny. let cool. (*tip: do not over-emboss)

step 6: paint over entire tag - including embossed images - with three colors of paint dabbers.  we are working with snow cap, pool, and cloudy blue to create a wintry look.

step 7: dab a little of each color on to a portion of the tag (*tip: it doesn't matter if you work light to dark to not as paint dabbers do NOT contaminate each other - this bottle only dispenses paint.  simply wipe off dabber top to remove any other colors)

step 8: using a piece of cut n' dry foam or ink blending foam, pounce on the painted section to blend the colors. (*tip: it's important that you pounce or dab on the paint and not wipe as we are trying to cover the images with paint).

step 9: repeat above steps until entire tag is covered. (*tip: if you need to blend areas again, simply repaint over them.  we want to make sure the entire tag is covered in paint).

step 10: once painted tag is dry, mist a cloth or paper towel with water and lightly wipe over the embossed images to remove the paint and create a shabby chic image. (*tip: the paint dabber will wipe off of the embossing powder to reveal your images. the reason i prefer this technique over simply embossing in black is that the paint makes a milky wash over the embossing.  the images appear black becasue that was our base coat.  you can remove as much or as little of the top layer of paint so your image can fade in and out in areas - umlimited possibilities!)

step 11: apply stickles to your finger and rub over background to add a bit of sparkle and embellish tag.

step 12: edge tag with white paint dabber by lightly swiping it along the edges of the tag.

again it's day 9 - thanks for the time...

"hardware holiday" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
distress inks: fired brick, peeled paint, brushed corduroy (ranger)
adirondack metallic paint dabber (ranger)
mini mister (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
grungeboard (tim holtz idea-ology)
texture hammer (tim holtz idea-ology)
tag and embellishments

step 1: stamp the santa image with black waterproof ink.

step 2: stamp the tree with  peeled paint distress ink. (*tip: to create a collage look, stamp your image off of the edge of the tag.)

step 3: stamp the "believe" stamp with fired brick distress ink - overlapping the other images.

step 4: using the ink blending foam and tool, apply color to areas of the tag.

step 5: drag paper distresser along the edges of the tag.

step 6: ink edges using brown distress ink with ink blending foam and tool to finish background.

step 7: to create hammered hardware for tag, remove 2 hinges from grungeboard  elements pack, 1 bookplate, and numbers 2 and 5.

step 8: paint hardware grungeboard pieces using metallic paint dabbers and numbers with black paint dabber - let dry. (*tip: don't forget to attach the grungeboard pieces to the craft sheet with glue dots so they are easier to paint)

step 9: attach metal bump tip to texture hammer.

step 10: place hardware grungeboard shapes on to hammer mat.

step 11: mist painted grungeboard with water. (*tip: whenever you are texturing heavy board, be sure to mist with water first.  this will help the thicker materials hold the texture).

step 12: start hammering the piece using firm pressure, but smaller taps - we're not building a house here so don't just bang away on it. (*tip: continue hammering pieces until desired look is achieved.  grungeboard will not fall apart when hammered. if you need to re-wet, no problem).

step 13: ink hammered pieces using ink blending foam and tool. (*tip: this will get inks into the crevices your created with the hammer).

step 14: attach brads to tag, and since the texture hammer also works great on metal, make your brads look like old nail heads by tapping on the tops of them to dent them. (*tip: be sure you are working on the hammer mat as it will protect your work surface and provide more resistance to the hammer).

step 15: attach painted numbers with adhesive of choice.

it's day 8 - and going great...

"holiday doorway" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
heat tool (ranger)
adirondack paint dabbers: lake mist, lettuce, cranberry (ranger)
distress ink pad: weathered wood, frayed burlap (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
mini mister (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
scratch tool, craft pick (tonic studios)
tag and embellishments

step 1: shake lake mist paint dabber and apply to tag in vertical stripes - be sure to leave areas of the tag exposed (top to bottom) on the tag in a very random motion (*tip: we are going for the look of "wood grain" so be sure to skip over areas, don't be too neat here).

step 2: once paint dries, apply weathered wood distress ink to entire tag using ink blending foam and tool - be sure to ink over the paint and all. (*tip: be sure to tap the tool on the ink pad and apply to the tag using a circular motion and working from your craft sheet)

step 3: ink edges with frayed burlap distress ink using ink tool as well.

step 4: fill mini mister with water and mist a paper towel.  lightly swipe damp paper towel over inked and painted tag. (*tip: you could also use a baby wipe to wipe away the ink)

step 5: cool - look and see how the paint actually resists to distress ink to look like "weathered wood!" (*tip: other inks will stain the paint, but distress inks wipe away).

step 6: apply lettuce paint dabber to rubber stamp by dabbing it on.

step 7: swipe dabbers across painted stamp and stamp directly on to tag with firm pressure and immediately lift off. re-apply paint and stamp the image a second and then a third time while the paint is still wet.  clean stamp with water. (*tip: the reason i swipe the dabber across the stamp before stamping is to level out the paint on the stamp.  otherwise it has "peaks" of paint from dabbing it on and if you stamped with it that way, the paint will squish out everywhere and distort your image)

step 8: paint brads with cranberry dabber paint and let paint dry. (*tip: count the number of stamped "berries" to determine how many brads to paint.

step 9: pierce holes into tag over "berries" of stamped image using craft pick and insert painted brads. (*tip: this new craft pick is retractable, has 7 different settings from long to short, narrow to wide - great for piercing holes in grungeboard, paper, metal, and clay - love it!  no more stabbing myself when i'm digging for it!)

step 10: to distress our "weathered wood" tag even more i like to use my scratch tool. (tip: this new scratch tool is retractable, has wired bristles to "selectively" distress paper, grungeboard and more - my second favorite distressing tool next to my paper distresser!).

step 11: stamp calendar stamp on separate tag with black ink.

step 12: cut out calendar and ink with frayed burlap distress ink and ink blending tool & foam.

step 13: drag the paper distresser along the edges of the tag and calendar to create a tattered look

step 14: attach calendar to tag with staples and finish embellishing tag. (*how cool are those vintage ice skate charms?  got them long ago, in a place i can't remember, isn't that always how it is?)

it's day 7 - and i'm in heaven...

"rusty noel" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
heat tool (ranger)
clear embossing powder (ranger)
distress inks: fired brick, shabby shutters, vintage photo, black soot (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
tag and embellishments

step 1: apply shabby shutters distress ink to tag by going direct to paper (DTP) and simply rubbing the pad on the tag.  do this until the entire tag is covered in ink. (*tip: i like working with a lighter color distress ink for this technique to provide the most contrast)

step 2: apply clear embossing powder over the entire tag and remove excess and place back in the jar- see it really does work as an embossing ink! (*tip: i would suggest using using regular clear embossing powder for this particular technique, i've had the best results with it)

step 3: holding the powdered tag over a trash can (or you'll make a serious mess), FLICK the back of the tag.  yes, be a flicker and flick the back of the tag HARD!  you should see some of the embossing powder fly off into the trash can.  if you feel the need to flick again - go for it. (*tip: it is important that some of the powder does fall off so don't be a softy here...)

step 4: emboss the tag with your heat tool until the powder looks like "orange peel". (*tip: be sure you don't over-emboss this!  when it turns shiny and glossy it's melted - move on.  too many times people want to go over their embossing "just to make sure".  trust me, if it's shiny, it's embossed.)

step 5: let the tag cool for a minute and then apply vintage photo distress ink over the embossed tag by once again going direct to paper.

step 6: using your ink blending tool & foam, press the ink down into the recessed areas of the embossed tag to create the look of "distressed enamel" and wipe off any excess ink with a pepr towel. (*tip: when you flicked the powdered tag before embossing it, some of the embossing powder flew off, so when embossed it left areas of the tag exposed.  inking with brown stained the exposed areas.)

step 7: now that our background is done, we are going to stamp our image with multiple colors of distress ink - that's right, all on one stamp, all at one time!  of course you could always create a custom stamp pad like we did on day 4, but this is something you can do if you only want to stamp the image once.  begin with the lightest color of distress ink and using the CORNER of the ink pad only, ink the areas of the stamp you want that color.

step 8: next continue to the next darker color and ink that section of the image as well - remember we are only using the CORNER of the ink pad to color the areas. (*tip: if you happen to ink over another color, not to worry it is impossible to contaminate a darker color distress ink pad with a lighter color!)

step 9: once you're finished inking all of your colors on your stamp and your stamp is completely inked and wet, stamp it on to another tag and cover it with clear embossing powder. (*tip: i don't suggest stamping on to the "enameled" background, the surface is too bumpy and the image doesn't show as well).

step 10: heat emboss the image with a heat tool.  remember distress is an embossing ink - how cool to be able to stamp it and emboss it with everything colored. (*tip: if the light bulb is going off - it should, yes this means that if you created a custom stamp pad with distress ink - day 4 again, then you could stamp and emboss your image).

step 11: ink noel image with vintage photo distress ink using ink blending tool & foam. (*tip: because you embossed your image first, it will now resist the top layer of distress - remember day 2 technique.  it all comes together doesn't it?)

step 12: trim image to fit tag, mat with cardstock and embellish.

*check out these other color combos! (*from left to right: weathered wood, broken china, fired brick, peeled paint)

it's day 6 - so let's mist...

"elegant Christmas" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
craft sheet
distress ink pads: aged mahogany, fired brick, black soot
distress re-inkers: brushed corduroy
mini misters
perfect pearls: heirloom gold
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
damask mask (heidi swapp)
grungeboard (tim holtz idea-ology)
paper distresser (tonic studios)
tag and embellishments

step 1: we are going to make our "pearlized-distress" mist solution first.  here's how: add 1 DROPPER full (not drop) of distress re-inker into an empty mini mister. (*tip: i use distress re-inkers for this because they are a concentrated dye, color stable, so you don't have to use much ink to get vibrant colors.)

step 2: add a small scoop of perfect pearls to the ink in the mister. (*tip: i like to use the end of a craft stick for this - it fits the mouth of the mister perfect! - wow, using the word perfect a lot today)

step 3: fill the mini mister about 3/4 of the way with water, replace the sprayer, and shake the solution up to mix it very well.  it's important the the ink and perfect pearls emulsify. (*tip: you need to leave room in the mini mister to help everything mix together.  by emulsifying everything/like salad dressing, it keeps the perfect pearls from separating.)

step 4: here's a color swatch of a few other color combinations of distress re-inkers and perfect pearls.  it's so easy and affordable to make your own "pearlized distress" sprays.  this ink and pearl solution can be used on cardstock, grungeboard, chipboard, canvas, ribbon, etc.  another great way to use those distress re-inkers - and 24 colors in the palette, unlimited possibilities!

step 5: apply mask to your tag. (*tip: a mask is a reusable, repositionable adhesive backed vinyl die cut that can be inked or painted over - another addiction of mine...guilty!)

step 6: shake mini mister solution and spray over masked tag.  the tag will start to curl but don't worry.  let the tag air dry. (*tip: if you feel the need to speed this up, you can use a heat tool but keep your distance because the masks are not heat stable - experience speaking once again!)

step 7: while the tag is drying remove 2 flourish pieces of grungeboard and place on craft sheet.  spray both pieces with mini mister to stain and pearlize these accents.  dry with heat tool. (*tip: grungeboard is a stainable material and won't fall apart or swell like chipboard will - it's heat stable too.)

step 8: once the ink on tag is dry, carefully remove the mask to reveal your design - so cool!

step 9: apply distress ink from the pad to the ink applicator tool with foam.  do this by simply tapping the foam on to the pad.  i am using 2 tones of red - aged mahogany and fired brick to get more depth.  it doesn't matter which color you start with.

step 10: starting on your craft sheet - if you don't have a craft sheet, this is a must have work surface. place the tool on the sheet and begin pulling the color from the sheet on to your tag using a circular motion. continue inking using both colors of distress ink until the desired look is achieved. (*tip: using the ink blending tool & foam on the craft sheet will provide and soft shading of color and avoid any harsh ink lines)

step 11: next, fill an empty mini mister with plain water and spray some water in your hand.

step 12: flick the water on to your inked tag creating droplets and let them sit there for about 10 seconds.

step 13: using a paper towel, blot off the water drops, this will lift the ink off of those areas.

step 14: dry the tag with a heat tool. (*tip: by drying the tag with a heat tool it raises the fibers in the paper and creates a bleaching effect - love it!)

step 15: drag the paper distresser along the edges of the tag to create a tattered look.

step 16: ink edges with ink blending tool and black soot distress ink. (*tip: this creates a burnt edge effect)

step 17: ink stamp with black soot and stamp on tag slightly overlapping masked design.

step 18: adhere grungeboard elements to tag using adhesive of choice and add any other embellishments to finish the tag.

it's day 5 - give this a try...

"believe" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
adirondack alcohol inks: denim, stream, stonewash (ranger)
pearl metallic mixative (ranger)
blending solution (ranger)
jet black archival ink pad (ranger)
ink applicator tool (ranger)
glossy cardstock (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
ghost snowflakes (heidi swapp)
tag and embellishments

step 1: attach a piece of felt (this is regular craft felt) to the ink applicator tool.

step 2: remove caps from alcohol inks and ink up applicator tool by pressing the nib of the bottle into the felt and giving it a squeeze for about 2 seconds (*tip: make sure the nib is into the felt or ink could squirt out everywhere - experience talking here!)

step 3: repeat inking the tool with whatever colors you want to use. (*tip: just be sure to apply the colors next to each other and not directly on top of each other.  it's also important to remember to not over-ink the tool, we can always add more ink later).

step 4: shake the metallic mixative before opening the bottle and apply ONE DOT of mixative on to the felt. (*tip: metallic mixatives are very concentrated so too much could ruin your background)

step 5: begin stamping tool on to the glossy side of a piece of glossy cardstock - tap, tap, tap!(*tip: glossy cardstock is NOT photo paper and is very different.  it is clay coated instead of emulsion coated so don't use alcohol inks on photo paper)

step 6: continue stamping ink tool on to glossy cardstock until entire area is covered with ink.  if you need to re-ink the felt, just add more - there is no need to try to match up the colors on the felt it doesn't matter, honest! (*tip: be sure you are pouncing the tool to get the ink on the paper - you should be making a pounding sounds here!)

step 7: once your paper is inked, apply a 2 second squeeze of blending solution to the felt on the tool - anywhere is fine. (*tip: blending solution will blend, lighten, or remove the alcohol ink so if you happen to get ink where you don't want it - your hands possibly?, then just apply blending solution directly to it and wipe it off)

step 8: stamp the tool over your background and watch in amazement as the colors and metallics blend and marbleize.  continue stamping until you're happy with the background (*tip: i never tire of watching this part, but don't over do it with the blending solution or all of your color will disappear)

step 9: my favorite part, i want to create a snowy effect on my background so GENTLY shake the blending solution over the background - just a little at a time.

step 10: immediately heat the drips with your heat tool to keep them from spreading out and the heat bleaches out the color. (*tip: don't worry the inks won't ignite from heat, just open flames)

step 11: continue shaking on blending solution and drying in between each application until your desired look is achieved.

step 12: ink stamp with archival ink pad and stamp images. let dry. (*tip: i prefer using archival ink vs. a solvent ink because archival won't react with the alcohol inks like the "others" can).

step 13: re-ink the tool (same piece of felt is fine), and let's ink up our embellishments - that's right! tap ink tool on to the back of the ghost snowflakes - use whatever colors you would like, i chose to use more pearl mixatives on these.

step 14: tap ink tool on the the beaded trim, ribbon and all, i chose to add more blue to these beads. (*tip: you can also drip the inks directly on to the beads for more color)

step 15: assemble the tag by adhering the glossy cardstock cardstock mat and then on to the tag (*note: i inked the top portion of the tag with the remaining ink on the ink tool - not the best surface for alcohol inks, but it works.), and embellish.

it's day 4 - still 8 more...

"Christmas memories" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
archival ink pad (ranger)
distress re-inkers: fired brick, mustard seed, faded jeans, peeled paint, black soot (ranger)
distress ink: brushed corduroy (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
cut n' dry FELT (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
scissors (tonic studios)
double stick foam tape or glue dots
tags and embellishments

step 1: ink stamp completely with archival ink (*tip: any other permanent and waterproof ink will work for this step)

step 2: square the BLOCK of the stamp on to a corner of your cut n' dry felt pad with the felt/fabric side facing up and stamp image (*tip: be sure to use pressure to do this as the cut n' dry is squishy)

step 3: while stamp is STILL on the felt, trace around the block with a marker.  lift off stamp and wipe clean. cut out with scissors. (*tip: this will make sense later, promise)

step 4: using distress re-inkers begin coloring your stamped image whatever color you want each area to be - here's how: when inking your image be sure to ink ON the stamped lines and not inside the lines (fight those grade school urges to "color inside the lines"!). keep in mind that we creating a stamp pad so the ink will start to spread as soon as you apply it to the pad so you need to work quickly (*tip: i like to use distress or adirondack reinkers for this technique as they both have detailed applicators.  just make sure you are using water based dye reinkers for this technique).

step 5: continue inking your pad coloring the stamped image.

step 6: ink until your entire stamped image is finished, do not be concerned about inside the lines of your image - ink will spread there anyways and it doesn't matter. the best part about cut n' dry felt is that when 2 colors of inks meet up they WILL NOT cross over each other!  weird i know, but the cut n' dry felt suspends the inks and they won't contaminate.  that's why it's so important to work quickly so each color can "stake it's claim" on the pad so to speak. also remember that if you want an area of your stamp to be black, you need to ink it black (*tip: if you happen to get a color where you don't want it, you can always re-ink over that area as long as your using a darker color ink)

step 7: once the image on your cut n' dry is all inked it's time to try it out - are you ready?  okay so this is where that whole draw with a marker and cut out come into play because your "custom" ink pad should be the same size as your stamp block - right?  so all you have to do for lining up your image is to stack your stamp block on top of your cut n' dry pad and it's lined up. (*tip: if you are using a clear stamp or ez-mount stamp on a clear block, make sure you position your stamp on the block the same way each time so it lines up)

step 8: tap the stamp on the custom pad several times to ink up the stamp - look at the stamp to make sure everything is inked up and ready to go (*tip: i don't like to press down hard as this is a freshly inked stamp pad and it could get messy, so just tap it)

step 9: stamp your image on to the tag.  WOW-check it out!  everything is colored already - woohoo!  no more endless coloring with markers and huffing and puffing on your stamp!

step 10: re-ink your stamp again by tapping it back on your pad - remember to keep track of which is the top and bottom of the pad so everything lines up and stamp the image again on another tag. (*tip: i like to make a mark on the top side edge of my custom pad with a sharpie as the inks will bleed out to all the edges and sometimes it's difficult to figure out)

step 11: repeat above steps one more time so you have 4 tags stamped.  if you were creating single layer cards or tags you could just keep inking and stamping, inking and stamping - i've gotten over 100 stampings from one inking of the pad.... (*tip: for storage of your custom ink pad, place in zip-lock bag or something air-tight. i also like to stamp the image once more and stick it to the outside of the bag to remember which stamp the pad if for.  over time the pad will look very inky, but not to worry it will work great next time you go to use it!  as for re-inking the pad, when the pad dries up re-ink it using the same inks as you did initially.  you may also want to write which colors of ink you used on the back of the stamped sample - just a thought!)

step 12: now that our images are stamped and already colored, we are ready to layer them for a dimensional tag.  set aside one tag for our background. on the second tag, cut out the "bubble lights", and "Christmas tree" sections - this is LAYER #1. (*tip: having a good pair of scissors is a good thing, having a GREAT pair of scissors is the best which is why i love my scissors from tonic.  they are self-sharpening (that's right), non-stick, and they cut with detail and comfort! - a shameless plug i know, but if you've ever used these you know exactly what i'm saying...)

step 13: on the third tag, cut out the "flexible flyer", "ribbon icicles", "ornaments", and "ornament hangers" sections - this is LAYER #2.

step 14: on the fourth tag, cut out the "ribbon icicles" and "ornament hangers" sections only - this is LAYER #3.

step 15: using your scraps from other tags, cut out the "tree" from the paramount lighting section.

step 16: ink the edges of all cut layers and background tag with brown distress ink using the ink blending foam and tool.  simply tap the tool on to the distress ink pad and lightly rub along edges (*tip: we are only trying to create a slight shadow on the edges, do not over ink!)

step 17: begin layering the tag by adhering the largest cut layer (LAYER #1) to your background tag using foam tape lining up the images with the background ones (*tip: i like using black foam tape or glue dots for layering to create a deeper shadow - and because i don't like white tape showing - yuck!)

step 18: adhere the next layer (LAYER #2) over the last layer lining everything up.

step 19: adhere the last layer (LAYER #3) over the "ribbon icicles" lining it up, and finally adhere the "tree" over the same tree on paramount lighting box. pretty neat huh?  adding just that little bit of distress ink really casts a nice shadow on the layer, and having each layer custom colored couldn't be easier!

step 20: accent your layers with stickles glitter glue and add any other embellishments - you're done!

it's day 3 - yippee...

"timeless santa" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
distress embossing powders: fired brick, antique linen, peeled paint, black soot (ranger)
distress embossing ink (ranger)
distress inks: antique linen, fired brick, peeled paint, vintage photo (ranger)
ink blending tool & foam (ranger)
heat tool (ranger)
paint dabbers: pitch black, silver metallic (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
grungeboard (tim holtz idea-ology)
tag and embellishments

step 1: ink stamp with distress embossing ink and stamp image on to tag (*tip: if you have trouble seeing your image(since the ink is clear), swipe your lightest color of distress ink on to the stamp first - it won't hurt your embossing pad and create a "tinted" embossing ink image)

step 2: shake all color of distress powders you're using. open them all up.

step 3: using your fingers, take a "pinch" of the first color you want to use and hold your fingers directly over the part of the image you want to color.  twist your fingers together to SLOWLY let the powder fall on that part of the image (*tip: hold your hand directly over the tag.  also, it doesn't matter what color you start with - honest!)

step 4: repeat the above steps for all colors you want to use on the image until entire image is colored with powders (*tip: don't worry about time - you have about 5-10 minutes to get your powders on while the ink stays wet so relax!)

step 5: IMPORTANT STEP - keeping your tag flat, hold it up with one hand and place 2 fingers under the tag with the other hand. using a tapping motion with your fingers, tap under that tag to bounce around the powders.

step 6: tip tag to remove any/all excess powders that don't stick to your stamped image - cool huh? (*tip: do not flick! these leftover powders are obviously all mixed up, but store them in an empty jar to save as a "party mix" for another project - maybe for grungeboard huh?)

step 7: emboss the image using your heat tool.  first thing you'll notice is that these powders never really change from matte to glossy like regular embossing powders do when they melt.  so how do you know when they're done?  well, practice...  the colors of the powders will actually change when they are melted, but if you're not sure, just heat as long as you think you would normally emboss something (*tip: the best part of distress powders is they can never be over-embossed like regular powders can so no worries).

step 8: THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP - distress powders MUST COOL before you can touch them.  unlike regular embossing powders that stick when melted, distress powders only stick once they have been melted and COOLED!  that's right, if you rub them while they're still hot, everything will fall off the paper.  just be patient.

step 9: once cool, touch areas of your image to make sure they feel like sandpaper vs. sand on the beach.  if they feel loose, just re-heat, let cool again, and then rub your hand across the image to remove the release crystals. (*tip: the release crystals are random what's done is done. do not put release crystals back into the jar, just throw them away)

step 10: ink the tag with various colors of distress ink using an ink blending tool with ink blending foam. your image is already colored with the powders so you're just filling in the background(*tip: i like to leave the center of the focal image light)

step 11: paint grungeboard number plate and mini numbers with paint dabbers and let dry. (*tip: don't forget the glue dot trick we learned on day 1 - Dec.1st post)

step 12: attach to tag with brads or adhesive and embellish tag with old charms, vintage buttons, and german scrap (this is cool stuff from my friends at paper artsy!)

it's day 2 - just for you...

"good ol' frosty" - tim holtz 2007
supplies:
craft sheet (ranger)
distress inks: faded jeans, broken china, black soot (ranger)
adirondack paint dabbers: snow cap, lake mist (ranger)
stickles (ranger)
clear embossing powder (ranger)
mini mister (ranger)
heat tool (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
bling borders (heidi swapp)
ghost snowflakes (heidi swapp)
vintage glass glitter (art institute)
tag and embellishments

step 1: apply snow cap white paint dabber to snowflakes stamp by dabbing the paint on to the stamp.

step 2: swipe dabber across painted stamp and stamp directly on to tag with firm pressure and immediately lift off - remember you're stamping with paint. immediately clean paint off stamp with water. (*tip: the reason i swipe the dabber across the stamp before stamping is to level out the paint on the stamp.  otherwise it has "peaks" of paint from dabbing it on and if you stamped with it that way, the paint will squish out everywhere and distort your image - what a mess!)

step 3: immediately apply clear embossing powder over stamped image and emboss with heat tool. (*note: this step is optional, you can just let the paint dry and then proceed to the next step)

step 4: apply various colors of distress ink directly to craft sheet by swiping the pads across the surface (*tip: do not swipe one color over another to avoid contaminating your ink pads)

step 5: spray inked sheet with mini mister filled with water until "droplets" of color form

step 6: press dry stamped tag directly into ink on sheet and lift off (*tip: do not swipe tag around in ink or you will create a muddy mess!)

step 7: dry inked tag with heat tool and repeat previous step 2-3 more time until you get the look you want (*tip: drying the ink in between layers gives you more depth and better color, but do not overheat or you could re-melt the embossing powder!)

step 8: spray a paper towel with water and swipe over stamped snowflakes to reveal white color again (*tip: the embossed painted image works as a resist - cool huh?)

step 9: stamp snowman with distress ink and wipe off image that overlaps embossing powder (*remember the embossing powder resists everything!)

step 10: edge tag by swiping lake mist paint dabber along edges for a distressed look

step 11: swipe snow cap paint dabber along back of ghost shapes to distress.

step 12: embellish tag with ghosts, bling, and for even MORE bling, accent stamped areas with stickles glitter glue and vintage glass glitter.

it's day 1 and time for some fun...

"santa's wish" - tim holtz 2007
supplies needed:
craft sheet (ranger)
ink blending tool (ranger)
distress inks: antique linen, fired brick, peeled paint, vintage photo, black soot (ranger)
distress crackle paint: fired brick, old paper (ranger)
stamp set (stampers anonymous)
grungeboard (timholtz idea-ology)
paper distresser (tonic studios)
tag and embellishments

step 1: paint part of tag with old paper distress crackle paint using brush cap (apply a medium to heavy coat for larger cracks - thicker the paint/bigger the cracks). let dry & crack.

step 2: paint grungeboard piece with fired brick distress crackle paint (*tip: attach grungeboard piece to craft sheet using a glue dot so it won't slide around while painting it). let dry & crack.

step 3: ink crackled tag and grungeboard with various colors of distress ink using ink blending tool (*tip: ink tool by tapping onto distress ink pad, start tool on craft sheet and apply ink to tag in circular motion to avoid harsh ink lines and blend colors better)

step 4: stamp santa image over tag using black ink (i used black soot distress). (*note how the image fades away when stamped over crackle.  if you want to image to show over crackle paint, i suggest stamping with acrylic paint vs. ink)

step 5: distress edges of tag by dragging paper distresser along edges of tag.

step 6: embellish tag with grungeboard letter and attach with brads or staples.  add other found objects or embellishments to personalize.